Even with great food, captive reptiles need supplements to stay healthy. The goal is enough calcium and vitamins, without overdoing vitamin D3.
Watch: the top 5 supplement mistakes reptile keepers make
The basics
- Calcium without D3: If your reptile has proper UVB lighting, it makes its own D3. Lightly dust insects with plain calcium at most feedings.
- Multivitamin: Dust insects with a reptile multivitamin about once a week, or as directed on the label.
- Calcium with D3: Mainly for reptiles without UVB. If you use UVB, use it sparingly or follow your vet's advice, since too much D3 can cause health problems.
Our leopard gecko kit includes plain calcium (without D3) and a reptile multivitamin, so you can start dusting from the first feeding.
Gut-load your insects
Feed your crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms nutritious food (greens, vegetables or a commercial gut-load) for 24–48 hours before offering them. A well-fed insect is a better meal.
Species notes
- Leopard geckos eat insects only. Some keepers also leave a small dish of plain calcium in the enclosure.
- Bearded dragons shift from mostly insects as juveniles to mostly greens as adults. Offer leafy greens like collard, mustard and turnip greens daily, and dust both greens and insects.
Warning signs
Shaky or weak legs, a soft or swollen jaw, or trouble walking can signal metabolic bone disease. See a reptile veterinarian right away.
Every animal is different. Follow product labels and your veterinarian's advice.